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Vintage clothing patterns for buying designer vintage dresses online

Madame Paulette Net Hat, c.1963
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Vintage clothing patterns – definition of vintage dress

Clothing produced in the period between 1920s though the 1980s is normally referred to as vintage dress. Some important items from the 1990s also fall into this category.

Dresses and accessories made earlier than 1920s, are normally referred to as antique.

As a matter of fact, designer vintage category continues to expand with years, together with a growing public interest to specific designers and historical time periods.




Vintage clothing patterns - haute couture versus ready-to-wear

The definition haute couture applies to a garment ordered specifically by one client from a design house, which is made exclusively by hand for that specific client. The House of Chanel still produces haute couture garment for their private clients. The term “vintage haute couture” is often misused by the vintage traders. A few expensive couture items find their way to the vintage market through the charities. However, the most valuable vintage pieces can be bought via auction houses or exclusive vintage clothing boutiques. One of the most exciting thing about vintage couture collecting is that every dress is unique.

Ready-to-wear vintage clothes are more easily located, because more of these clothes used to be produced. The pręt-a-porter (ready-to-wear) garments are made by a fashion house and distributed for the mass consumer via specialty boutiques. Most of the vintage pieces found in the vintage boutiques and auctions are ready-to-wear designer vintage.

As a matter of fact, you can expect that a purchase of couture dress would require the highest price.

Vintage clothing patterns - identifying haute couture vintage dress:

  • a couture item will usually have an inventory number on a small label, which is located next or behind the designer label. These labels used to be handwritten with ink, therefore they have been often faded over the time. The inventory number lead to the account number of the specific client who ordered this piece. However the labels were often removed from a garment, it the client traveled abroad and was afraid of having to pay import/export duties. It is important to familiarize yourself with a designer label, which is normally made of fine silk.


  • the sophisticated construction details is another way to determine the value of the item. You should look for the distinguished quality of fabrics, fine silk linings, hand-stitching, beautiful buttons and hand-bound buttonholes, fine metal zippers set in by hand, tiny fabric-covered snap fasteners, as well as the distinguished overall quality of design and craftsmanship.


  • As far as the embroidered items are concerned, couture garments used to be embroidered by hand. The hand-made embroidery can be identified by examining the thread. Fine silk is used in hand-embroidered garments. The more fine thread identifies the more refined craftsmanship. You have to examine carefully the reverse side of the fabric to spot the hand-knotted ends, which is the indication of the hand-work. Sometimes you would need a magnifying glass for this kind of examination.


  • One of the best ways to identify haute couture is examine the finish to it from inside out. French seams are an indication of a fine craftsmanship. In this case the seams were turned in, as the garment was constructed, and the end result would show no selvage edge to the fabric. Hand-finished linings are also indication of a labor extensive work on the garment.


Vintage clothing patterns – definition of “Attributed to” vintage dresses

This definition would be used for a garment which has no label or proof of authenticity. In the past it was a common practice, that a department store purchased a garment from Paris only to copy it stitch for stitch. “Attributed to” clothes are a less expensive alternative, just as they used to be at the time when they were created.

Vintage clothing patterns - identifying ready-to-wear

A mass-produced label, size tag, machine-finished seams are the typical characteristics of the ready-to-wear clothes.



Suits Designed by Chanel
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Vintage clothing patterns - buying vintage dresses at online auctions:

Online auctions open possibilities for those who are new to this market niche, those who want to sell the inherited items, and those looking for the new items in their collections without having to shop in the high-end shop or an auction house.

The main problem of buying an auction item on the Internet is that it is difficult to have a guarantee on the quality of an item. It is possible that some sellers do not properly report the condition of an item. It is therefore advisable to ask as many questions as possible about the condition of a vintage dress before bidding on it.

Vintage clothing patterns - the condition rating as a factor of value

The value of an antique item is generally not contingent on its condition (please see the definition of antique above). It is usually true with the items which are rare and sought after by museums and designers, who may want to have it for a display or for inspiration.

However, for most of the vintage designer clothes their condition is crucial for defining their value.

Excellent condition: is a rating to indicate that the item is without damage or flaws.

Good condition: is a rating which indicates that the item is not in perfect condition. It may have some damage to it, but is still considered in a salable condition. It is not advisable to buy an item, unless it is at least in good condition.

Fair condition: is a rating which indicates that the item has some problems and would need some restorations (less desirable than “good”)

Fair to good: is a rating which indicate normally that the item is better than “fair”, but is not advisable for buying, unless you are prepared to restore the flaws or use it as it is.

Poor is the lowest condition which indicates that the item is badly damaged and not advisable to buy, unless you are prepared to repair it or use it as it is.

In case of online auction it is important to ask questions. Even if the item is described to be in a good condition, it is advisable to ask for more details. If photos of the vintage dress do not reveal the necessary details, do not hesitate to request more photos.

Vintage clothing patterns - specific points of importance when buying vintage dresses online:

  • a photo of the label should be present;
  • ask the seller about possible stains on the garment. If the stains were present on a garment for a long time period without being noticed, there is a possibility that they have become permanent. Ask about possible perspiration stains. If the seller guarantees that the dress is without the specific damages, you have inquired about, you have a right to return the item in case it actually has these specific flaws.
  • View the other items this seller has to offer. You can make a conclusion about the experience of the potential seller.
  • Check the seller’s feedback to see how other buyers have rated their transactions.
  • Read the seller’s terms and conditions. In most of the cases the returns are not possible.
  • Sizing of a vintage designer dress can be a problem, if you are not familiar with sizing of vintage clothes. It is always better to ask for precise measurements before you bid.


Vintage clothing patterns - cleaning of vintage dresses

It is advisable not to dry-clean your vintage dress. In case it should be done, the item should be given special handling instructions. In some cases it should be cleaned completely by hand. It is in any case highly recommendable to remove all vintage buttons before the dry-cleaning, especially when you would like to prevent damaging beautiful vintage buttons. If you find it too time-consuming to remove the buttons, at least cover them with aluminum foil for protection, before the dry-cleaning.

In a book “Clean & Green” by Annie Berthold Bond you can find a lot of valuable information on the household alternatives to clean the valuable vintage dress by hand.




To look for more information about Vintage Chanel Dress, and locate online vintage clothing stores,

Return from Vintage clothing patterns to Vintage Chanel Dress

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